But it was my first exposure to an authentic New Zealand crowd-pleaser, which is why I’ll always remember it well.
Lake Pukaki was, like the hundreds of other massive lakes scattered across the country, carved by glaciers and mastodons, meaning that the water filling its shores was fresh, freezing, and the remnants of a river of ice. The air of the quasi-alpine setting didn’t bring blizzards and ice sheets to mind, but the range of snow-capped ridges, peering from beyond the lake, reminded us that the countryside still experienced chills.
As we approached the lake, we found that the hairy mastodons had been replaced by a copper collie, erected in 1968 in memory of those who helped graze the wild countryside. The dog, peering out along the shore -- which was dotted by purple lupins, fighting the rocky ground -- stood between the lake and its curator, the Church of the Good Shepherd. Born in 1935, the Church was little more than a stone-masoned shed, but its clear glass looked out over the lake, making a serene setting for weddings and spying on tourists.
As the elderly waddled, slowly, back into the bus, our bus driver began telling us the legend of our next stop: Aoraki. The largest, eldest son of the Creator, Aoraki was filled with jealousy at his father's love of Mother Earth and joined his three brothers in an excursion to our world. Apparently, motorized transport did not exist in pre-human times, as the four brothers' canoe was soon overturned in the choppy waters. The wind whipped away the warmth, and, unable to move, the brothers have were frozen in stone. (Kind of like what will happen to Portland if this damn storm doesn't soon pass.)
As crazy as my cynical self thought this story -- silly pre-science peoples! -- I quickly understood its influence when I caught a distant glimpse of Aoraki peeking through the distant clouds. More commonly referred to as Mt. Cook, this behemoth towered at 12,000 feet, higher than anything in New Zealand (besides my Kiwi roommate, who enjoyed the ganga, and how!) The top member of the Southern Alps, Aoraki had quite the history under its rather impressive belt. During the 1940s-earl 1950s, the peak was a tried and true staging ground for Sir Edmund Hillary's eventual assault on Mt. Everest. Hillary, whose impressive height should have been enough to tower over his fellow humans, grew up not far from Aoraki, and credited the mountain's hard, harsh conditions with leathering his skin and weathering his soul enough to become (presumably) the first human to conquer Everest, way back in 1953.
Aoraki towers over Lake Tekapo, a mammoth lake that stretches dozens of kilometers in length. (That's Aoraki, tiny, next to my head.)
I'm not sure if there's a Crayola factory nearby, but the lake look like it was constructed of billions of melted-down Robin's-Egg Blue crayons. Never have I seen a lake this vibrant, this thick with color, as Tekapo. The color drowned out the reflections of the Alps in a way that would have made Peter Jackson proud. After a couple snapshots of the lake -- we were never close enough to actually swim in the crayon-y gunk -- we were on our way to get a closer glimpse of the mountain named for
Next stop: Encountering Aoraki, eating cherries, and arriving in Queenstown
[End of post disclaimer: I finally put our cubic tonnes of snow to use today and went sledding four nearly four hours with some neighbors. Apparently, my Dad's not the only one whose age has caught his body off-guard (although I'm still yet to be hungover from a few after-dinner drinks like him), and I feel like I've been trampled by a herd of overweight rhinoceroses. Thus I'm about as useless as clothes while you get tased, so I hope this post didn't disappoint! Now, back to stomping on some Terrible Towels.]




