It’s sometimes “a drunken old man.”
It’s always so nice, they named it twice.
Wagga Wagga. Where Dreams Comes True, and Where Chinese Food Will Do the Riverdance in Your Stomach.
If you weren’t privy to my Facebook status the other day — unfortunately, that does not include my Mom, who froze hell with her recent foray into social networking — then you must have thought I spent the weekend simply skating by with my pals James Bond and Jim Beam (not the truth, just a line paraphrased from some country song). In reality, I was in the social/cultural/bogan capital of Australia, Wagga Wagga.
As you may remember, my flatmate (Brendon) Boney was reared in WW, and as last Friday marked the end of my week of type-as-many-fluff-words-just-to-meet-the-minimum-count essays, I decided to pay a visit to his hometown. Of course, it helped that he was heading that way for a gig, allowing me to clamber over the front seat’s CD cases, fast food wrappings, jacket linings, and random accoutrements and hitch a ride.
The five-hour ride south comprised of a 45-minute turn-around (after he realized he left his phone laying around in our living room), an impeccably Australian sunset, a late-night McDonald’s pit stop, and an ELO sing-along that put me in an Almost Famous frame of mind. (Also, the new name of Boney’s band will be the Jeff Lynne-inspired Acoustic Folk Duet.)
Passing signs for Canberra, Woolongong, and Jugiong (population 150!), we finally entered into Wagga’s outskirts with the stars scattered above. As we meandered through the town’s suburbs — who knew 60,000-plus populations warranted suburbs? — Boney reminded me of how his high school persona ran the town. Tales of scavenger hunts, loose mothers (er…), and a tight circle of friends painted Wagga as a screenwriter’s dream, not as an actual center of business and family life.
My first tour of town was bereft with dark alleys, shady vagabonds, and shadowed war machinery — mainly because it was about 11 p.m., but also because tanks and planes lined the roads, somewhat eerily. Rumor has it that an RAAF base was not far off — its products, affectionately known as “RAAFeys” (Raffi?) apparently painted the town red in their buzz cuts and $150 aviators — but such a conspicuous display of Australian military might made me wish I had Donald Rumsfeld in the backseat.
The brief nighttime tour led us past a hospital, a KFC, and an RSL Club — the elderly purportedly play Aussie Rules Football there, but I’m not so sure, seeing as it’s no longer 1962 — before we arrived at Boney’s house. His dad, a former boxing champ, stayed past the final bell to keep awake (terrible analogy, sorry), letting us into the house. (I’ve never met an Aboriginal father before, so I wasn’t quite sure if the chewed-off earlobe was typical, but Boney later informed me that his dad was the original Evander Holyfield.)
Hilariously, Athol made Boney sleep on the floor while I got his bed, so I awoke next morning refreshed and ready to tackle Wagga. My enthusiasm was furthered by the homemade brekky, and after washing down the eggs with some salsa and toast, we headed out.
The day was cool and blustery — I’m eternally grateful to Boney’s mom for gifting me a sweater — and while the driveway’s basketball hoop wouldn’t blow over until that afternoon, my first foray into the city wasn’t met with the sunny glow I was expecting. (But at least it felt like home?) That being said, there’s nothing to deter a true blue Aussie from hitting up the beach, not the pelting rain, and certainly not the fact that you may be dozens of miles inland from the nearest ocean.
Yeah, Wagga Wagga has a beach. This sign is proof. But not all beaches are created equal, and, sometimes, inside jokes garner public financing.
The “beach,” renowned throughout the area, is actually just a sandy spit since deserted by the Murrumbidgee River, no more than a football field in length and, seeing as we were miles away from what could be termed “Baywatch babes,” not necessarily the most keen of spots to spend a weekend sunning. Still, the Waggamen and Waggawomen have taken quite the liking to it, and its awkwardness and undeniable uniqueness have made it a town jewel. Plus, it’s a great pit stop to restock your drink cooler as you float down the river (or so I’ve been told).
Once I got the beach-bummin’ out of my system, Boney and I headed to the town’s bustling, beaming, brimming-with- anything-but-boredom center. Ok, that may come across as a bit hyperbolic, but as much as I wish it were — Lord knows I love a good sarcastic disparaging — it wasn’t. The patrons were out, the shops were unshuttered, and even though the weather was as cooperative as the Sandinistas (taking a break from studying for a history exam…), the mood was anything but country-bumpkin-dour. There was the American “Hog’s Breath” Café; there was the music shop where Boney’s old jam-members still worked; there was the indoor mall, complete with a line for Santa and the aforementioned Irish Chinese food. It may not be as large as Canberra, but Wagga has thousands more flavor (flavour?) than the capital ever will.
After walking through the Veterans’ garden — and hearing about what Boney did on each bench to which girl — we decided that the time had come to prepare for the night’s gig. And by prepare, of course, I mean head to the nearby liquor store. Seeing as I’ll be underage in only a week and a half, I had no qualms about taking a 2 p.m. advantage of my current situation.
With drinks in hand, a couple games of pool, behind-the-back-darts, and some lessons on cricket nuance, courtesy of Boney’s 11-years-old-and-nearly-as-tall-as-me brother, followed. I also got a chance to see the behind-the-scenes photos from Boney’s Australian Idol experience, and while I don’t know any of the names in the photos, it was pretty apparent that
The show that evening was going to be held at The Red Steer, and as Athol dropped us off, it was quick to see that I would be more out of my element than hydrogen at a noble gas party (ha, my high school chemistry teacher would be so proud). The setting was unlike anything I could have imagined (mainly since I’m too lazy, and I don’t really write fiction). I was bordered by a rarely-used fireplace, a booth of betting tabs underneath the TV greyhounds, a guy with a sinewy guy with a mohawk mullet (just think about that one), and the pregame show of the Australia-New Zealand Rugby League World Cup match, and the only things moving were the video game bucks on the back-of-the-bar arcades.
This was going to be sweet.
Boney began setting up the gear, and I collected a couple drinks to keep warm. We were greeted by Jay, a semi-professional footballer and full-time drunk (11:30 a.m. is pushing it, even for a college student), whose words were more slurred than some of the nicknames Boney has garnered from his xenophobic friends. As Australia began to pile on New Zealand, 9 p.m. rolled around, and the set began.
For a while, I sat around by myself, heckling Boney and trying to convince him to play songs he didn’t know (and if I was lucky, getting other people to join me). A 45-minute set went by quickly, and another round brought both drinks and company. People began filling up the main area of the Steer, guys and gals alike, and excited, quasi-drunken chatter — the kind you’d typically find at a bar? — began to fill the air. Andrew, a sweater’d 37-year old husband of Boney’s high school math teacher, brought us both beers and questions about why I would ever support someone as terrible and ungifted as Boney. Scotty, his cricket-playing pal, then asked, on a grid, which part of America I was from (the top left part) and what I’d thought of Wagga so far (incoherent mumbling on my part, saved by the beginning of Boney’s next set). As soon as Keith Urban broke from Boney’s guitar, the two most enthusiastic girls stepped up to the plate, dragging their boyfriends behind, and unleashing their unending renditions of “Belt This Tune As Loud As Possible, But Don’t Forget To Take A Swig Of Alky After.”
And so the night went. Scotty attempted the Worm a few times, Andrew ended up break dancing on his back, and the girls made sure to recharge with some more Toohey’s. When I heard my name called from the back of the bar, I saw Athol with a smile, and I looked up to see that midnight, and the end of the set, had rolled around. One more Keith Urban song followed, and after that, the nightcap — which included some more bars, a “dirty kebab,” and, at last, a picture of me next to the Wagga Wagga sign — ensued.
As we drove home the next day, feeling like the Carlton Draught had replaced the Chinese food as the Lords of the Nauseating Dance, I made sure to shape up for our pit stops, half-heartedly napping in between. The first came in Gundagai, home of local-made brooms (who would buy them, I have no idea), but more importantly, the Dog on the Tuckerbox.
According to Boney, the dog represented the eternal loyalty of man’s best friend to those who serve in the Australian military. But according to the sign we saw, the dog belonged to a hungry drover, whose food was now in the dog’s stomach. One of those stories has a higher ceiling of romanticization, but I’m not going to tell you which.
The other stop along the way home was to appease me, in Goulburn. Ever since Bill Bryson told me of Australia’s “Big Things,” I knew I had to lay my eyes on at least one. Four months had passed in this country, and still, not one “Big Thing” has graced my presence.
Until yesterday.
Finally, I got to see a “Big Thing,” a pointlessly pork-barrel construction, serving no purpose other than to continue the legacy of other “Big Things,” all roadside attractions that inevitably bring people together in awe and utter confusion. [EDIT: According to Wikipedia, the Captain Cook in Cairns was the first "Big Thing" I saw! This semester just got so much better!] My “Big Thing” was a sheep the size of seventeen school buses, or a young Refrigerator Perry. Blocking a McDonald’s from the freeway, the sheep was not doing much, as sheep are wont to do. Simply standing there, idling by, holding his ground as tourist after tourist streamed off the freeway and into the adjacent parking lot. With a Mona Lisa-smirk, the sheep was just…there. And that, my friends, is the essence of these “Big Things.” Whether they’re koalas, prawns, or bananas, these mammoth feats of human endeavor are just…there.
Which is the great thing about Australia. Things like Wagga, like bogan beaches, and like this sheep. You may not know it exists, but you’re happy to have found it.
Unfortunately, that also includes middle-aged guys trying to do head-spins on the dance floor, which pretty much negates everything else.




